Crochet a Wearable Afghan Mermaid Tail

Several hours

Ages 8+

What Will You Make?

Create your very own mermaid tail with this cozy couch blanket. This one’s for all the mermaid lovers out there who always wanted their own tail. The top part is a “lapghan” (small afghan) blanket and the bottom cocoons around your feet.

What Will You Learn?

This project, written in typical crochet shorthand, is moderately difficult but still doable for a determined beginner. (You’ll find a list of abbreviations below, and I’ll walk you through specific stitches as we go along.) Get plenty of yarn — for the no-bind-off method that I use, you’ll need at least 3 working strands of yarn changing to a different strand at the end of each row. And if you want a thicker tail fin, use 2 strands held together.

Abbreviations used in this guide

sk — skip
st — stitch
sl st — slip stitch
ch — chain
sc — single crochet
sc tog — single crochet together
dc — double crochet
dc tog — double crochet together
* * — repeat instructions between asterisks

Crochet your Tail

Make the body, rows 1–2

To start: Ch 153.

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each stitch across, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: *Sc in first dc, sk 2 dc, 5 dc in next, sk 2 dc* (this makes what I’ll call the 5dc pattern). The pattern ends on a sc, change colors (see Note 1). Ch 2 and turn.

Note 1: Changing colors on single crochet

To change colors when last stitch is a single crochet, insert your hook into stitch, yarn over, and pull through the stitch. Now hook your new color strand, dropping the old strand, and pull through the last loop. When changing colors for the first time, I like to be cautious and do a simple knot with the tail and the dropped yarn. It keeps it doubly secure, but not exactly by the crocheter’s handbook.

Make the body, rows 3-73

Row 3: 2dc in first st (that last sc), sk 2 st, sc in the 3rd dc of the 5dc shell, sk 2 st, then follow the 5dc pattern until last sc. Here you only do 3dc, changing colors (Note 2), ch 1 and turn.

Row 4: Sc in first st, sk 2 st, then follow the 5dc pattern until the end where you sc in that last st/dc. Change colors, ch 2 and turn (see Note 3).

Rows 5–73: Repeat rows 3–4 (see Note 4).

Note 2: Changing colors on double crochet

Note 3: Repeating color change

By now your color change pattern might be ready to repeat, depending on the number of strands you’re using. To make things easier, always bring up the next color behind the color you’re dropping.

Note 4: Increase/decrease

By making sure that on rows you start with a sc, you end with a sc and the rows you start with ch2, 2dc you end with 3dc you’ll help ensure that you’re not increasing or decreasing. You will also see the work is slightly raised and rippled. This is normal.

Make the body, round 74

From here you’ll switch from rows to rounds in order to bring the lapghan around the feet.

Round 74: Sl st to the 1st dc of the row, ch 1, sc in joining, then proceed with 5dc pattern.

Make the body, round 75

Round 75: Sl st to 1st changing colors, ch 2 and 4dc in same as join. 5dc pattern to last sc. Now sc tog last sc to the 2nd dc from the beginning, making sure to change color.

Make the body, rounds 76–95

Round 76: Ch 1, sc in same as join then go on with the 5dc pattern.

Rounds 77–94: From here you should be able to just go in a spiral, changing colors as you get back to the start of the spiral. That will mean changing colors in either the sc or the first dc, depending on where you are in the pattern. I did a total of 20 rounds counting from the beginning of the original join. Make sure to carry the unused strands behind your work. When changing color bring your hook behind the unused strands, hook next color, and continue on from there.

Round 95: Keep doing the pattern and color changing around, but instead of the 5dc, do only 3dc. Still skip 2 stitches in between the 3dc group and the sc.

Make the body, rounds 96–103

Rounds 96–98: Continue with 3dc group, but now only skip 1 stitch in between the 3dc group and the sc.

Round 99: Do 3dc, sc tog where the next 2 sc would go (in the 2nd dc of the 3dc group). Do your 3dc pattern, making sure to do a sc tog in every 3rd sc spot (see Note 5).

Round 100: Change colors in the first sc spot, 3dc then sc tog (in the 2nd dc of the 3dc group). Do your 3dc pattern with a sc tog in every 3rd sc spot. Continue around until back at the beginning of round.

Round 101: Change colors in first dc of the 3dc, sc tog over the next 2 sc spot. Do your 3dc pattern with a sc tog in every 3rd sc spot. Continue around until back at the beginning of round.

Rounds 102–103: Change colors in the first sc, then sc tog in every sc spot should be for 2 rounds. This should leave you with 12 stitches. Bind off, and leave a tail so you can go ahead and sew the tail closed.

Note 5: How to do a single crochet together

To do a single crochet together (aka a single crochet decrease), insert your hook through first stitch, yarn over, and pull through stitch. You should have 2 loops on hook. Now insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, and pull through stitch. You’ll have 3 loops on hook. Finally yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Make the body, border around opening

Now you need to hide all the carried over yarn. I choose to use the variegated yarn. Join your yarn on the outside of the opening where you joined the rounds (round 74). Ch 1 and sc in same stitch then evenly around the entire opening. In the top corners, place 3 sc in the corners. Take care to make sure you’re crocheting over the stands of carried yarn. Bind off and weave in the end.

Make the fin

First, choose 1- or 2-strand method (see Note 6).

Fin Row 1: Ch 43, dc in 4th chain from hook and dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Fin Row 2: Dc tog, dc in rest of stitches, ch 2 and turn (see Note 7).

Fin Row 3: Dc across, dc tog in last 2 dc, ch 2 and turn.

Fin Rows 4–11: Repeat rows 2–3.

Fin Row 12: Now do dc tog, dc tog, then dc in rest of stitches, ch 2 and turn.

Fin Row 13: Dc across until the last 4 st where you will dc tog, dc tog, ch 2 and turn.

Fin Row 14: 2 dc in each of the next 2 st, dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Fin Row 15: Dc across, put 2 dc in each of the last 2 dc, ch 2 and turn.

Fin Row 16: 2 dc in first dc, dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Fin Row 17: Dc across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 and turn.

Fin Rows 18–25: Repeat rows 16–17.

Fin Row 26: Dc across, ch 1 and turn.

Border of Fin: Now sc around, making sure to put 3 sc in the corners except the last corner you come to, which should be your starting point. Ch 1 and turn, so that now you’re working on the top/straight edge of the fin (see picture).

Top of Fin Row 1: Sc tog across, ch 1, turn.

Top of Fin Row 2: Sc tog across, ch 1 and turn.

Top of Fin Row 3: *Sc tog, sc* across. Ch 1 and turn.

Top of Fin Row 4: *Sc tog, sc* across. Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Note 6: Single or double strand

The fin can be done with 1 or 2 strands held together. I have done both ways and they both have worked and looked great. The 2-strand method will use more yarn, so keep that in mind. Here I’m showing the 2-stranded fin to show a little lesser known method than the typical one strand. Both will still use the size H hook.

Note 7: How to do a double crochet together

To do a double crochet together (aka double crochet decrease), yarn over and insert your hook through first stitch.

Yarn over and pull through stitch giving you 3 loops on your hook.

Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, leaving you with 2 loops on your hook.

Yarn over and insert your hook into the second stitch.

Yarn over and pull through stitch giving you 4 loops on your hook.

Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, then yarn over pulling through remaining loops.

Sew fin to body

Lay the lapghan and fin both facedown and pin together. As shown in the picture, I used 2 hooks to show actual beginning of fin to end of fin. Make sure to sew from technical beginning to end to give more stability to the fin.

Whip-stitch the tail securely, including the sides of the sc rows, onto the lapghan.

Bind off and weave the last one in.

What Is Happening Here?

Crochet 101

Never tried crochet before but want to start? In this beginner crochet tutorial by Haley Pierson-Cox, learn the basics of casting on and working single crochet, double crochet, and slip stitch to make basic rectangular projects. Or find a stitch glossary and the complete article on Make.

What's Next?

If you want to do another one (or are asked to replicate it), think about different color combinations, different boutique yarns, or fleece yarns you could use. A flashy option would be to sew sequins onto the final project. You’re only limited by your imagination.

More Crochet

Why not try these other crochet tutorials and projects?

This project first appeared in Make Magazine in June 2015. It was written by Shelley Bunyard. Shelley “Mad Hooker” Bunyard lives near Columbus, Ohio (by way of Alabama and Pittsburgh), with her wonderful husband and two young ones whom she often calls Pugsley and Wednesday. She works nights as a hospital unit coordinator and in her free time crochets at madhooker.com.

Materials:

Yarn, worsted weight, 1,500-1,700 yards depending on yarn type, how tightly you crochet, and other factors. I recommend getting plenty of extra yarn (because who doesn't need extra yarn?) until you’ve done this pattern a couple times and can judge yarn usage for yourself.
Crochet hook Size H (5.00mm)
Darning needle for sewing